...ahem, well, first of all, it was not really "a daring trip". Well, not unless you count as DARING:
- 8 people being cramped up in a Mahindra Bolero for most of journey or
- the same 8 people sleeping in bad hotels without heating (for the most part) in 1-digit temperatures (some sleeping on the floor in sleeping bags) or
- the exact same 8 people cycling to the top of a hill carrying their unfit jiggling bellies and in the process almost killing themselves out of exhaustion and dehydration or
- 4 of those 8 people (most daringly) motorbiking in the off-roads of Bhutan and almost choking to death in the carbon-negative dirt and dust
.. Secondly, this post is not REALLY going to "Blow your mind". (Not unless you have a stroke or a brain hemorrhage as you read this post, which I pray you don't, coz, you are my dear friend and audience). In this time of Social Media and super-exaggerated-hyperbole, awe-inspiring headlines, I could not help but blow things (a tad) out of proportion. Also, it was just a clever ploy to grab your attention.
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(You sly dog, You!! hehe hehe) |
Well, now that I have your attention, here goes the back-story of the Bhutan trip.
Last year me and 4 buds were trekking through the
cold mountains of West Bengal in our mission to conquer Mt. Sandakphu. Turns out, we completed the trek with one day to spare and hence, ended up with a whole extra day for further
exploration.
This is where things started getting darker and murkier. We discovered that we were a mere 250-odd kms from the Bhutan border and immediately, our brain started working up. Our logical thinking and rational judgement went haywire. We had come under the grip of the Bhutan-mania and we starting making frantic plans, calling up friends, family, neighbors and the neighbor's dog to help formalize a last-minute plan to spend 2 days in Bhutan.
This is where things started getting darker and murkier. We discovered that we were a mere 250-odd kms from the Bhutan border and immediately, our brain started working up. Our logical thinking and rational judgement went haywire. We had come under the grip of the Bhutan-mania and we starting making frantic plans, calling up friends, family, neighbors and the neighbor's dog to help formalize a last-minute plan to spend 2 days in Bhutan.
We would have almost succeeded in setting foot into Bhutan that day, had our guide Pemba not crushed our high hopes
and lofty aspirations by saying -
“Bhutan.. Bhutan, agle saal karo, sir!!”
“Bhutan.. Bhutan, agle saal karo, sir!!”
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"I am Pemba and I saved you guys!!! Bow to me, you Imbeciles" |
We were crestfallen, shaken to the core, sobbing in
bewilderment as our hearts and minds tried to comprehend Pemba's words. We could not believe we were not going to
Bhutan and dejectedly, we continued on our further journey to Darjeeling, where we spent the 2 blissful days gorging up on calories lost during the trek.
But the Seed of the idea had been sown and and so, One year later (17th March 2016), we finally made it to Bhutan and boy, was it "Mind-Blowing"!!!
But the Seed of the idea had been sown and and so, One year later (17th March 2016), we finally made it to Bhutan and boy, was it "Mind-Blowing"!!!
1. Soak in the Beauty and the Color
The Bhutanese have made liberal use of color, effects and images, whether it is in the buildings, the temples or the monasteries (called Dzongs).
2. Paro Tsechu - The Bhutanese Buddhist Dance Festival
We witnessed the Paro Tsechu, which is a Buddhist dance festival, a major event in Paro, Bhutan. The festival is held throughout Paro town and the first day is in the Paro Rimping Dzong. Needless to say, it is a photographers delight.
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The Prayer Flags and the painted Dragon (A Common Feature in Bhutan)
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The Circle of Life drawing on the wall of the Rimping Dzong. It is so detailed, it is Mind-Blowing. The picture obviously does not do justice to the real thing |
2. Paro Tsechu - The Bhutanese Buddhist Dance Festival
We witnessed the Paro Tsechu, which is a Buddhist dance festival, a major event in Paro, Bhutan. The festival is held throughout Paro town and the first day is in the Paro Rimping Dzong. Needless to say, it is a photographers delight.
Paro Tsechu - Check out the masks and the colorful dresses |
Paro Tsechu - Even the audience in so colorful and love those yellow drapes |
Paro Tsechu - The ladies sang a Bhutanese song to the tune of a single flute. We could not understand the song, but it sounded enchanting!!! |
The adventurer inside us was itching and our adventure began with the short but legendary trek to the Taktsang Dzong aka, the Tiger's Nest.
Quick Trivia - Taktsang Dzong is a beautiful monastery nestled on a bare cliff and is the site of a cave where Guru Padmasambhava is said to have meditated for 3 years, 3 months, 3 weeks, 3 days and 3 hours. Legend has it that the wife of a king in Tibet became a disciple of the Guru and transformed herself into a Tigress to carry the Guru from Tibet to this place and hence the name Tiger's Nest.
The legend, of course, is Legendary and so is the place. The trek is incredible, and once you reach the tall mountain abode of the gods, the temple buildings and the idols inside the temples are EPIC legendary.
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The beginning of the trek where one can see the small white Dzong stuck to the mountain. |
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"Nature is the source of all Happiness" they say and WE, the eternal Nature-Lovers agree to a tee. |
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The gradual Ascent begins. |
The path is dotted with beautiful little temples, a quaint wooden bridge, colorful prayer wheels and little sign boards imparting wisdom to tired travelers.

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Yes, we need a Benevolent King in these turbulent times. Amen!!! |
And slowly... the quiet and beautiful topography gives way to the magnificent mountains.
And finally, the glimpse of the Tiger's Lair.
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Ek Selfie to Banta hai, Boss!!! |
They do not allow photography inside the monastery, so you will just have to go there to witness these idols and I can assure you that you will not be disappointed. Its 30K well spent just to catch a glimpse of the mesmerizing and incredibly huge idols of the Buddha, the Guru and the 5 avtaars of the Guru. The rest of the trip is a bonus. Believe me!!
Of the 5 senses that we have possessed as humans, sight is probably the most powerful. Its only what we see is what we perceive as reality and sometimes when we see incredible things, whether natural or man-made, we feel that they just might be unreal. These moments in like make us realize what it means to be human and to be alive. It is a humbling feeling and one that will stay with you forever.
4. Bicycling to Buddha Point, Thimphu
The next adventure of the trip was the cycling trip to Buddha Point and back.
However, we hit a roadblock. It was Monday and Thimphu was closed and so was the Bicycle store. But...
We had not traveled 3000+ kms to accept defeat, just because the Bicycle Shop in Thimphu was closed.
We had not traveled 3000+ kms to accept defeat, just because the Bicycle Shop in Thimphu was closed.
We made a few phone calls, coordinated with some locals, deliberated on some important points (like cost of getting the shop opened on an off day) and finally, we got one of the Bicycle shops to open for us to rent the Bikes. And once we had the Bikes, the sky was the limit (literally!!!).
Bicycling from Thimphu to Buddha Point is not easy because Buddha Point is on the top of a small hill. If the ascent on feet is difficult, an ascent on the Bike is virtually impossible (esp. if one has not practiced or is not a regular bicyclist, like most of us).
So, huffing and puffing we went, slowly and steadily climbing the hill, pushing the pedals, gripping the handles and chanting the name of the Buddha.
Me.. I just gritted my teeth, bent my head and kept cycling.. on and on.. until, I suddenly realized that I had come way ahead of all my friends. They were left behind on the previous turn or god knows where. I looked ahead and kept pushing the pedals. My running experience had taught me that if I stopped, it will be very difficult for to re-start. So, with legs burning and breathing-in great gusts of air, I kept trudging on. But it was too much to take and as I got ready to give up, I turned a corner uphill and saw the Buddha's magnificent gold statue before me.
With the last bit of energy and my eyes on the Buddha, I cycled the last 100 meters to the temple, to be spell-bounded by the beauty of the Buddha in spite of the breathlessness.
With the last bit of energy and my eyes on the Buddha, I cycled the last 100 meters to the temple, to be spell-bounded by the beauty of the Buddha in spite of the breathlessness.
The God, the Man and the Machine |
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5. Bullet Ride on the (Off) Roads of Bhutan
Next part of Bhutan Adventure was the Bullet Ride from Thimphu to Punakha and back. A total of 140 + kms, this was the ride of our lives and for me it was absolutely special, because I had never ridden a Bullet for such a long distance and in the mountains too.
Next part of Bhutan Adventure was the Bullet Ride from Thimphu to Punakha and back. A total of 140 + kms, this was the ride of our lives and for me it was absolutely special, because I had never ridden a Bullet for such a long distance and in the mountains too.
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The Key that had the Number of the Beast - 666 |
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And the Beast itself!! |
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And the Beast was ridden by this Dude!! :-D |
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The Other Dudes and their Beasts |
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Ready to Unleash!!! |
The road from Thimphu to Punakha is a thorough mountain road and it is under-construction - filled with dust, dirt, gravel and stones. We rode cautiously, stopping on the way at the Duchala Pass.
Onward we went to Punakha and as I was riding, my mind kept worrying about the journey back. I was sure it will get dark during our ride back to Thimphu in the evening. Already I had scant experience of riding the Bullet and riding it in the dark on these dirt roads was not a welcome thought.
Anyway, the Punakha Dzong was beautiful and peaceful. Sitting quietly in its large courtyard relived some of my anxiety.
Darkness started falling on the way back from Punakha to Thimphu and the twisting and turning mountain dirt road started becoming like an endless serpent from hell. But we drove slowly, cautiously and we started to feel that things were under control.
You know how sometimes when things are looking really bad, you feel that it cant get any worse. And it really does get worse!!
That is what happened next. As we cautiously rode on the winding roads in the dark, it started to rain. The sub-10 degree temperature trickled down more than a few notches and we started getting soaked.
Imagine - Riding a bullet in a strange land, in the night, through an under-construction mountain road in steadily falling rain in maybe 4-5 degree temperatures, with not enough protection from the rain or from the cold. Sometimes the road gave way to large puddles filled with water. Sometimes, the huge trucks carrying the load of the sand and gravel refused to give way to us. Sometimes, there was no road, only slippery mud and sometimes, rain made it difficult to see the next turn.
I started feeling like I was turning out to be a liability for my friends because of my inexperience. But I must say that I am proud of them all, coz they never let go or expressed their frustration, even once. Tapan started riding ahead of me, his red tail light acting as a beacon for me, helping and guiding me onward on the dark road. Rama and Appu rode behind me, their headlights mingled with mine, illuminating the road ahead in the rain and the slush.
Our convoy carried on, blocking out all physical, mental and emotional factors. We rode continuously for more than 3 hours and finally reached Thimphu safely, but completely drenched, cold to the bone and shaken to the core.
The spirit had triumphed and we were feeling elated, but if you ask me, I will never do anything like that again. :-)
But than again, they say "Never Say Never Again". So who knows what destiny has in store.
The trip to Bhutan was mind-blowing for all of us. We are glad that we did it and we live for more such trips to come.
So before this Blog ends, a final Kadhinchey to the entire Project team:
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Beautiful Duchala Pass |
Onward we went to Punakha and as I was riding, my mind kept worrying about the journey back. I was sure it will get dark during our ride back to Thimphu in the evening. Already I had scant experience of riding the Bullet and riding it in the dark on these dirt roads was not a welcome thought.
Anyway, the Punakha Dzong was beautiful and peaceful. Sitting quietly in its large courtyard relived some of my anxiety.
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Entrance to Punakha Dzong |
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The courtyard inside Punakha Dzong. Just sit quietly for 10 mins and you will forget all your worries, fears and anxieties |
Darkness started falling on the way back from Punakha to Thimphu and the twisting and turning mountain dirt road started becoming like an endless serpent from hell. But we drove slowly, cautiously and we started to feel that things were under control.
You know how sometimes when things are looking really bad, you feel that it cant get any worse. And it really does get worse!!
That is what happened next. As we cautiously rode on the winding roads in the dark, it started to rain. The sub-10 degree temperature trickled down more than a few notches and we started getting soaked.
Imagine - Riding a bullet in a strange land, in the night, through an under-construction mountain road in steadily falling rain in maybe 4-5 degree temperatures, with not enough protection from the rain or from the cold. Sometimes the road gave way to large puddles filled with water. Sometimes, the huge trucks carrying the load of the sand and gravel refused to give way to us. Sometimes, there was no road, only slippery mud and sometimes, rain made it difficult to see the next turn.
I started feeling like I was turning out to be a liability for my friends because of my inexperience. But I must say that I am proud of them all, coz they never let go or expressed their frustration, even once. Tapan started riding ahead of me, his red tail light acting as a beacon for me, helping and guiding me onward on the dark road. Rama and Appu rode behind me, their headlights mingled with mine, illuminating the road ahead in the rain and the slush.
Our convoy carried on, blocking out all physical, mental and emotional factors. We rode continuously for more than 3 hours and finally reached Thimphu safely, but completely drenched, cold to the bone and shaken to the core.
The spirit had triumphed and we were feeling elated, but if you ask me, I will never do anything like that again. :-)
But than again, they say "Never Say Never Again". So who knows what destiny has in store.
The trip to Bhutan was mind-blowing for all of us. We are glad that we did it and we live for more such trips to come.
So before this Blog ends, a final Kadhinchey to the entire Project team:
Yes, that beautiful building is our Hotel in Paro and that Handsome man is Appu, The Chief Executive Office |
Sanky, The Chief Entertainment Officer (who took his job a little too seriously) |
Tapan, The Chief Information Officer. He had all the information (even unwanted) and he was not afraid to share it (even when no one asked for it) :-P |
Babloo, The Brand Ambassador (of the Mira - Bhayander Cycling Club) |
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Pradeep, The Principal Negotiator, who bargained for everything from Hotel Rooms to free 2016 calendars |
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Rama, The Lead Cinematographer (Jara Pose pe gaur kijiye!! ) |
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Ravi, The New Hire |
Chencho, The Facilities Manager |
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And Finally, Yours Truly, The Record Keeper and The Gossip Monger (this blog is the Gossip) |
And, also, a brief montage for other things that happened on this trip -
Phuntsholing, the entrance to the Dragon Kingdom.. Dinner at Asian Kitchen (twice).. getting Permits.. Sheetal, the most helpful girl in the world.. Dragon Club in Paro and sweet little Karma.. Red Rice.. Stone Bath.. Drinking Arak .. Archery .. WiFi Chahiye (Densa Hotel).. Bhutan Textile Museum.. The story of the 4 friends.. Photos of the King and Queen.. Vivacity Club.. San Maru Korean Restaurant.. Roaming around in Thimphu.. Post Office.. Hike to Tango Monastery.. Chencho.. Gulugulu.. Cheeseballs.. Rajah on the bicycle at night.. Happy Ending (which never happened)!!
And finally, thank you Pemba for the brilliant advice last year, coz, we now realize that we needed more than 2 days in the Kingdom of Bhutan, aka, the last Shangri-La and although we spent 7 days there, we feel that its still too less.
Like Hotel California. “You can check out anytime you like, but you can never leave!!”
Like Hotel California. “You can check out anytime you like, but you can never leave!!”
7 comments:
You are more awesome than you really are... Waiting for the day when I read your book..
Book?? Prem Dhage - you are writing a book. I should start writing my blog again!!
Hehehhe.. Book koi nahi kharidega. Blog tak hi theek hai.
No Akshay. Don't have the patience or the inspiration to write a book. Yes, u should start writing your blog.
Wow...I could almost feel the trip ! Quite passionately shared (and hilariously written) I must say :)
Wow...I could almost feel the trip ! Quite passionately shared (and hilariously written) I must say :)
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